Iceland - a peculiar travel destination

Traveling in Iceland is quite unique.

Firstly, weather in this country is ridiculously super minded. Check the forecast and u can see all kinds of description. In my short stay here I've encountered so many different type of weather conditions.

Fog

Snowstorm

Rainstorm

Bright sun

Gentle snow

Sand storm

Prolonged rain

Strong winds

Because of this unique weather behavior, gave rise to this interesting quotation on many souvenirs here. 

"If you don't like the weather here, just wait 5mins"

The ficklemindedness of the weather also means that any trip here should be planned with more spare days to cater for sub-optimal weather conditions. Especially if your itinerary includes northern light hunting or ice caving. These are 2 activities that require a specific SET of weather conditions to carry out. 

Secondly is the Icelandic currency, kronas. Iceland is a place where you can survive without a single cent. 

We spend almost 2 weeks here and have not a single cent of local currency. Everything can be paid for using the credit card. 

From paying for hotels, tours, car rentals to small purchases like a coke or a snickers bar, credit card is excepted. For certain unique items like taking the bus or paying for petrol, you can buy and top up a stored value card with credit card. Voila!! No cash required at all!!!

Downside of using the card for everything is that u really need to make a mental note of your expenditure. Otherwise, you can easily go broke. By the time u get the monthly bill, it's too late.

Third, food in Iceland is simple. Fish n lamb are the main staple. White fish like cod, halibut are common. Exotic choices like whale (minke), fermented shark, dried haddock are also available. But it seems these exotic choices are now more for tourists than locals.

Local lobsters are actually langoustines which are pretty much larger prawns with lobster-like shells. Quite tasty of done well. Lobster soup is also popular. I've had several versions of this dish. All yummy!!

Lamb had always been my personal favourite. Aside for the usual grilled option, locals also like to use it in soup, commonly just called meat soup. Typical meat soup is like an oily version of minestrone without tomatoes and with chunks of lamb. It's really good for the subzero temperatures.

Water, locals will tell you that Iceland water comes from the glaciers and is the cleanest tap water u can find in the world. For the cold tap water, yes it is. But watch out for the hot water from the taps, it has a strong sulphur taste and smell as it was heated by geothermal steam. For the uninitiated, it's going to be like rotten eggs. Effervescent vitamin C tabs or tea bags would be useful to cover the taste.

Finally, driving in Iceland is a breeze. Traffic is typically light. Considering its enormous land area and ridiculously small population, I've hardly seen a traffic jam, even though most adults here have a car or jeep. Motorcycles are few and far between.

There's only 1 major road that connects the entire country, highway 1. Even though it's a highway and majority of its speed limit is 90km/h, much of it outside the capital is only 2-lane, 2-way. In Singapore these roads will be considered  local accesses. It's not easy to get lost, given the lack of official roads, but if you ever go onto the dirt tracks, memorise your way back.

You will not see much traffic along highway 1, but don't be deceived by the route. The weather poses a huge threat. I had drove in thick fog where I could not see anything more than 20m away. Heavy snow and rain. Strong winds cause the biggest worry. There are occasions where I had to steer with a 5-10degree offset just to keep the car straight.

It is also very important to note that the direction which u stop the car becomes important under strong wind conditions. I almost had my car door ripped off by the wind had we not hold on to the door handle. Recommendation is to stop the car facing the wind. It's better to have a tougher time opening the door than to drive without a door. 

You have been warned!!

The sparse population also mean that petrol stations do not come as frequently as in Singapore. You have to plan your journey with a petrol station or 2 in mind. I faced the situation where the kiosk just did not work at one station and I had to backtrack to another kiosk to get petrol. I was running on reserves on that journey. Lucky I didn't need a tow in the end.

Paying for petrol is also peculiar. In the daytime it's usually fine if the station is manned. Just go to the counter and pay as per normal with your credit card. 

Difficulty comes when at night or at stations which are self-service, of which many are. A pin is required with your credit card. Iceland cards have a 4-digit pin. Singapore cards typically have 5 or 6digit pins. My experience with 2 brands are as follows.

Shell, self service kiosk only allowed me to key in 4 digits of pin. I tried first 4 digits of my UOB card and it was rejected. I tried the same with my Standard Chartered card and it worked.

N1, the biggest network of stations in Iceland. It accepted my UOB card with 6 digit pin and also my Standard Chartered card with a 5 digit pin. There's also the avenue to buy a prepaid card at manned stations for use at N1 self service stations. 

I would recommend N1 from my own experience.

There are only 2 types of fuel at most stations, 95 or diesel. Some have biodiesel. So no headaches for choice.

Iceland Day 7, Sunday, March 16

It's a lazy Sunday. 

We were supposed to ice caving at noon. Apparently aside from having heavy rain, which will flood the caves, warm sunshine is not recommended as well.

The warm sun will melt the glacier excessively and will also flood the caves. Ice caving, like watching the northern lights, requires very particular weather conditions. And today was not that weather.

The weather was generally fine for outdoors. The sun was nice and bright, a great relief from the chilling winds. We decided to chill instead. Have been doing quite a bit of driving the past days. 

So it's time to just enjoy the cabin.

Iceland Day 5 - Friday, March 14

What was supposed to be our last day in Iceland, became a day of eureka. 

After weather washing out all our nights and possibility of seeing the northern lights, we were about to leave here with an unfulfilled dream. A wave of madness rushed into us and we had an eureka moment.

We will extend our stay in Iceland. We have travelled so far. We will only be doing ourselves a huge disservice I we allowed ourselves to leave. Hence, we plucked up out courage and made the calls.

We will be staying until Thursday, 19 March. If we are that unlucky to not see it  even till then. It's fated. But at least we have now given ourselves a fighting chance. 

Almost the entire day was spent making arrangements and cancelling arrangements. I'm sure our bill for this trip is going to sky rocket. But once again, it's a holiday budget, not a budget holiday. We went for it!!

Iceland Day 4 - Thursday, March 13

We are waiting for our guide for ice caving to contact us but he seems quite slow in responding to emails. Torsteinn, the owner of our guesthouse shared that the caves are likely to be flooded due to the rain the day before. Afternoon may be possible. 

So while waiting for news, we decided to have a short road trip first. But before that we had to have some fun with Hackla, the resident sheep dog. All the sheep are indoors, so she's free to play around with us.

We are driving to the east towards Hofn, a fishing town. It's somewhat a capital for the area. Hope to find some activities there. 

On the way there, we made a detour and drove towards a glacier, Fláajökull. Our first photo with a glacier.

Hofn, was a nice place. We could see a few glaciers across the lagoon from the port area. 

But it seems that most of the places of interest here are catered for the summer crowd. We kindda came here for lobsters cos it's in abundance here. It took a while for us to find one that's open  in this season. 

It's not cheap, in fact, it's really expensive. We are on a holiday budget, not budget holiday. So yeah..

After lunch was a long drive to the west. We received no news for ice caving and so it's off to another sight here in Iceland. Jökulsárlón, is a huge glacier lagoon.

It's a good place to see the icebergs, which broke off from the glacier, Breiõamerkurjöll.

We tried to look out for the lights again but the sky just didn't look optimistic.

Iceland Day 3

Weather for northern lights were once again poor. Temperatures were freezing again. 

That's it for Reykjavik, it's now time to head on to Skalafell to experience the glaciers. 

We had planned to set off earlier today, but we could only start our journey at about noon. Not a good idea when you have to cover 500++km. 

Well, we had to make the most out of our journey here, so we plan for a few stops to look at some sights too.

First stop, Seljalandfoss, a nice waterfall where we could walk behind it. It's was a fantastic idea and very cool to see it from a different perspective, but it's super cold!

Next was another waterfall, Skogarfoss, this is a pretty one which you can really get up close. It's was just too cold and we just looked at it from afar. The splattering water from the falls makes it even colder! 

This makes almost a third of the journey and it was already getting late. But we had one more stop to make, Vik, to get more warm accessories. :)

This brand is quite affordable. 

As we continued our drive to Skalafell, the sky got dark and fog set in. It was not an easy drive for newbies to the country like us. Furthermore highway 1 here, is really nothing more than a 10m wide Tarmac for both directions, most of it at least. 

There are also many small bridges to cross which are only single laned, so u will have to give way if there's another vehicle approaching in the opposite direction. 

There are few street lamps here. Those only exists where there are towns or cluster of houses, majority of the road is just lined with reflectors. 

Large container trucks are quite common, but every time I had to pass one, it's unnerving. They bring along huge turbulence. Our car is 4WD, and quite sturdy, but still felt the jerks when they pass. This is our ride.

By the time we reached our accommodation, it's already late at night. 

Iceland Day 2

Start to day 2 was considerably better. We were able to embark on our golden circle tour. 

The golden circle tour is a basic 3 point tours that covers a few of the popular points of interests, gulfoss, geysir & thingvellir.

Gulfoss, also known and golden falls of fall of gold is one of the prettiest waterfall in Iceland. It's a 2 step waterfall cutting through the valley. I don't remember the name of the valley nor the source of the water. Haha!!

Geysir is supposedly the birthplace of the word itself. The roots of the naming of all geysers in the world. "Gey" refers to the term "gush". According to the guide, Icelanders were never very creative or romantic in their naming conventions. Thus this phenomenon which has water/steam gushing out, they named it geysir or in plain English terms, gusher!!

Thingvellir is a national park. What's peculiar is this is where the Eurasian tectonic plate meets the Atlantic plate. The 2 plates here are divergent therefore technically the place is going to get bigger and bigger. You actually dive down  into to the submerged rifts and touch both plates. But that's not for me. 

We are glad to be able to complete this day tour as it soon began to rain again. Once again the possibility of seeing the aurora washed out.